Now that the engine was rebuilt, I started working on the
frame. I took off the few remaining
parts, forks, tree, stem, and swing arm.
This view shows the frame looking at the bottom. There was tons of dirt and grease all over
To save time in cleaning off all the oil, dirt, and grease,
I took the frame over to my buddy’s shop and borrowed his pressure washer. I coated the thing with a whole can of
degreaser, and then sprayed the thing down really good. Even with that there were some really stubborn
bits that required scraping with a scotch brite pad then repeating the pressure
washing. Overall, this was a pretty easy way to clean up the frame.
I brought the frame back to my workshop, cleaned up some of
the smaller chassis parts, then set up all the parts for painting.
I used the KBS Coatings rust seal product as the base
coat. This stuff is supposed to
encapsulate any remaining rust and do a real good job of sealing off the metal
to keep out corrosion. It can be sprayed
on or brushed on. A little goes a long
way and it flows out so no brush strokes are visible.
The results with just the rust seal coat look really
good. The only problem is that the rust
seal paint is not resistant to ultra violet light, so it will start to fade if exposed
to prolonged sunlight. If you don’t want
it to fade, it needs to be top coated.
I let the rust seal coat dry for about 6 hours so it was dry
to touch but just slightly tacky. Then I
sprayed DupliColor gloss black enamel doing 2 light coats and finishing with a
medium/heavier coat.
Here is how the finished parts turned out.
Ideally, I could have got all these parts fully sand blasted
and powder coated, but using the kbs coatings rust seal method with enamel top
coat is a pretty durable alternative to powder coating and it cost significantly
less money being able to do it yourself.
No comments:
Post a Comment